When choosing a modern method of lighting a room, you need to know how to connect a fluorescent lamp yourself.
The large surface area of the glow helps to obtain even and diffuse illumination.
Therefore, this option has become very popular and in demand in recent years.
Fluorescent lamps belong to gas-discharge lighting sources, characterized by the formation of ultraviolet radiation under the influence of an electrical discharge in mercury vapor with subsequent conversion into high visible light output.
The appearance of light is due to the presence on the inner surface of the lamp of a special substance called phosphor, which absorbs UV radiation. Changing the composition of the phosphor allows you to change the tint range of the glow. The phosphor can be represented by calcium halophosphates and calcium-zinc orthophosphates.
The principle of operation of a fluorescent light bulb
The arc discharge is supported by thermionic emission of electrons on the surface of the cathodes, which are heated by passing a current limited by the ballast.
The disadvantage of fluorescent lamps is represented by the inability to make a direct connection to the electrical network, which is due to the physical nature of the lamp glow.
A significant part of luminaires intended for installation of fluorescent lamps have built-in glow mechanisms or chokes.
Connecting a fluorescent lamp
To correctly carry out independent connection, you need to choose the right fluorescent lamp.
Such products are marked with a three-digit code containing all the information about the quality of light or color rendering index and color temperature.
The first number of the marking indicates the level of color rendering, and the higher these indicators are, the more reliable color rendering can be obtained during the lighting process.
The designation of the lamp glow temperature is represented by digital indicators of the second and third order.
The most widely used is an economical and highly efficient connection based on an electromagnetic ballast, supplemented by a neon starter, as well as a circuit with a standard electronic ballast.
Connection diagrams for a fluorescent lamp with a starter
Connecting an incandescent lamp yourself is quite simple, due to the presence of all the necessary elements and a standard assembly diagram in the kit.
Two tubes and two chokes
The technology and features of independent serial connection in this way are as follows:
- supply of phase wire to the ballast input;
- connecting the choke output to the first contact group of the lamp;
- connecting the second contact group to the first starter;
- connection from the first starter to the second lamp contact group;
- connecting the free contact to the wire to zero.
The second tube is connected in a similar way. The ballast is connected to the first lamp contact, after which the second contact from this group goes to the second starter. Then the starter output is connected to the second lamp pair of contacts and the free contact group is connected to the neutral input wire.
This connection method, according to experts, is optimal if there are a pair of lighting sources and a pair of connecting kits.
Connection diagram for two lamps from one choke
Independent connection from one choke is a less common, but completely uncomplicated option. This two-lamp series connection is economical and requires the purchase of an induction choke, as well as a pair of starters:
- a starter is connected to the lamps through a parallel connection to the pin output at the ends;
- sequential connection of free contacts to the electrical network using a choke;
- connecting capacitors in parallel to the contact group of the lighting device.
Two lamps and one choke
Standard switches belonging to the category of budget models are often characterized by sticking contacts as a result of increased starting currents, so it is advisable to use special high-quality versions of contact switching devices.
How to connect a fluorescent lamp without a choke?
Let's look at how fluorescent fluorescent lamps are connected. The simplest chokeless connection scheme is used even on burnt-out fluorescent lamp tubes and is distinguished by the absence of the use of an incandescent filament.
In this case, the power supply to the lighting device tube is due to the presence of an increased DC voltage through a diode bridge.
Switching on a lamp without a choke
This circuit is characterized by the presence of a conductive wire or a wide strip of foil paper, one side connected to the terminal of the lamp electrodes. For fixation at the ends of the bulb, metal clamps of the same diameter as the lamp are used.
Electronic ballast
The operating principle of a lighting fixture with electronic ballast is that electric current passes through a rectifier and then enters the buffer zone of the capacitor.
In electronic ballast, along with classic starting control devices, starting and stabilization occurs through a throttle. Power depends on high frequency current.
Electronic ballast
The natural complexity of the circuit is accompanied by a number of advantages compared to the low-frequency version:
- increasing efficiency indicators;
- elimination of flickering effect;
- reduction in weight and dimensions;
- absence of noise during operation;
- increasing reliability;
- long service life.
In any case, one should take into account the fact that electronic ballasts belong to the category of pulsed devices, so turning them on without sufficient load is the main cause of failure.
Checking the performance of an energy-saving lamp
Simple testing allows you to timely identify a breakdown and correctly determine the main cause of the malfunction, and sometimes even perform the simplest repair work yourself:
- Dismantling the diffuser and carefully examining the fluorescent tube in order to detect areas of pronounced blackening. Very rapid blackening of the ends of the flask indicates burnout of the spiral.
- Checking the filaments for breaks using a standard multimeter. If there is no damage to the threads, the resistance values can vary within 9.5-9.2Om.
If checking the lamp does not show malfunctions, then the lack of operation may be due to the breakdown of additional elements, including the electronic ballast and the contact group, which quite often undergoes oxidation and needs to be cleaned.
Checking the performance of the throttle is carried out by disconnecting the starter and shorting it to the cartridge. After this, you need to short-circuit the lamp sockets and measure the throttle resistance. If replacing the starter fails to achieve the desired result, then the main fault, as a rule, lies in the capacitor.
What causes danger in an energy-saving lamp?
Various energy-saving lighting devices, which have recently become very popular and fashionable, according to some scientists, can cause quite serious harm not only to the environment, but also to human health:- poisoning with mercury-containing vapors;
- lesions of the skin with the formation of a severe allergic reaction;
- increased risk of developing malignant tumors.
Flickering lamps often cause insomnia, chronic fatigue, decreased immunity and the development of neurotic conditions.
It is important to know that mercury is released from a broken fluorescent lamp bulb, so operation and further disposal must be carried out in compliance with all rules and precautions.
A significant reduction in the service life of a fluorescent lamp, as a rule, is caused by voltage instability or malfunctions of the ballast resistance, therefore, if the electrical network is of insufficient quality, it is suggested to use conventional incandescent lamps.
Video on the topic
Reading time ≈ 3 minutes
The most common lighting source used in office, industrial and public buildings are fluorescent lamps. Recently, due to saving energy resources, they have also begun to be frequently used in home life.
Standard lamps, in addition to their advantages, such as low energy consumption, ease of installation, low cost, also have a number of design disadvantages. Some of them come from advantages: by using cheap, outdated circuits and materials, the manufacturer reduces the cost of the lamp, while at the same time worsening consumer qualities in advance.
Connection diagram for fluorescent lamps
Connecting one or two factory-made fluorescent lamps can be studied by disassembling a regular lamp. The usual standard, widely used wiring diagram for fluorescent lamps includes a starter, inductor, connecting wires, capacitor, and the lamps themselves. In this case, the so-called electromagnetic control system is used.
It is quite possible to improve the level of illumination on your own and remove annoying buzzing and blinking. To do this, it is necessary to replace the outdated control system with a modern electronic one (electronic ballasts).
First, you need to dismantle the lamp and remove all the filling from it. By purchasing a new electronic unit, based on the parameters of your lamp, it will be possible to connect fluorescent lamps without a choke and starter. For this work, you will need screwdrivers with different blades, wire cutters for stripping wires, a screwdriver for attaching control units, electrical tape, and a tester screwdriver.
Connecting electronic ballasts for fluorescent lamps is easy to do with minimal knowledge of electrical circuits and skills in working with electrical wiring. In fact, the lamp itself will contain the block itself, a set of wires and fluorescent lamps.
Before starting work, you need to select a sufficient space in the luminaire body to install the electronic control unit, guided by the convenience of connection to the terminals located on its body. We fasten the block to the body using self-tapping screws with a regular screwdriver. We connect the control equipment with the lamp and the connection terminal.
The connection diagram for 2 fluorescent lamps is similar, they are simply connected in series, and, based on this, the power of the electronic unit should be twice the power of the lamps. The same principle applies when connecting three or more lamps in one housing.
After assembling the entire structure, you need to make sure that all conductors are connected correctly, after which you can install the lamp in place. Having checked with a tester that there is no voltage in the network, we connect the lamp to the electrical wiring, connecting the wires through a special terminal block.
The last step is to turn on the voltage to verify the correct operation of the lamp. If the circuit, for example, connecting two fluorescent lamps, was done correctly, then the process itself will be strikingly different from the original one. Firstly, the lamps will light up instantly, without so-called warming up; secondly, the low-frequency hum will disappear, the light will stop pulsating, noticeable to the human eye, and the overall luminosity will increase.
Lamps based on tubular fluorescent lamps are still in demand in office and industrial premises, garages and workshops, and remain as a legacy in Soviet-era buildings. Despite the obvious disadvantages, such as large dimensions, humming during startup and operation, unstable glow and flickering depending on voltage fluctuations, some connection complexity, it will not be economically feasible to replace oblong fluorescent lamps with compact ones if the electronic filling of the lamps is in order, and only replacement of fluorescent lamps is required.
The fact is that the operating principle of gas-discharge light sources, as well as their energy consumption, does not depend on size and shape, and the cost of a tubular lamp without purchasing electronic components will be much less than installing a standard socket and purchasing a compact lamp that includes the necessary electronics.
lamp contacts Therefore, it is worth thinking about how to check a fluorescent lamp and related devices before switching to other types of lamps.
Operating principle and connection diagrams
First you need to understand the operating principle of a fluorescent electric lighting device. A glow discharge in an atmosphere of inert gases with admixtures of mercury vapor causes a glow in the ultraviolet spectrum, which is converted into visible light using a phosphor applied to the inner wall of the flask.
types of fluorescent lamps To start a discharge (electrical breakdown, after which the gas is ionized and becomes a conductor of electric current), a high voltage pulse is needed between the cathodes of low-pressure gas-discharge lamps, the connection and replacement of which are discussed in this article.
general diagram of a fluorescent lamp To start and operate these luminaires, two switching schemes are widely used, using:
- Electromagnetic ballast (electromagnetic ballast) and starter;
- Electronic ballast (electronic ballast - electronic ballast).
Scheme with electronic ballasts
The algorithm for starting a fluorescent lamp is the same for both options, but the circuit with an electronic ballast (choke)
Diagram with throttle and starter
and the starter is more clear. When voltage is applied, the cathodes heat up, after which a high voltage surge occurs (about 1 kV) and an electrical breakdown occurs in the gas and current begins to flow in it.
The starter has a sealed glass bulb with bimetallic contacts,
starter between which, when voltage is applied, a glow discharge begins to occur, heating the normally open contact plates.
The heated contacts close, and current flows through the filaments of the lamp cathodes, heating them.
After a few seconds, the bimetallic contacts of the starter cool and open, causing a sharp induction surge due to the inductance of the inductor - at this moment the lamp begins to glow.
LDS 20 W Capacitors are used to compensate reactive power and smooth out electromagnetic interference.
Circuit with electronic ballasts
A high frequency current is generated in the electronic ballast, and the algorithm for starting and operating the lamp is programmed in the electronic circuit.
disassembled ballast Thanks to electronic ballasts, it is also possible to carry out cold instantaneous start-up of fluorescent lamps, which reduces the service life of gas-discharge lamps, but can extend their service in the event of burnout or degeneration of the cathodes, as evidenced by blackening at the ends of the tube.
electronic ballast The possibility of a cold start and the method of its implementation must be indicated in the device passport. A diagram with electronic ballasts is always available on the device body, following it exactly, you can on one's own connect a fluorescent lamp.
Connection diagram Since electronic ballasts are more economical and create less noise and electromagnetic interference, they are gradually replacing outdated chokes.
Replacing a burnt out lamp
If the problem is only how to replace a fluorescent lamp, without connecting electronic components, then you must first disassemble the lamp and, being careful, rotate the tube along its axis. The direction of rotation can be viewed on the holders, or determined experimentally.
lamp replacement Having turned the glass tube 90º, it is lowered down so that the contacts pass through the slots in the holders.
Lamp contact holder The new lamp is oriented so that the contacts are in a vertical plane and fit into the slot, after which the tube is turned in the opposite direction. After turning on the power, make sure that the lamp starts up normally, and then insert the diffuser lamp into place.
The burnt-out lamp is disposed of, or they try to “reanimate” it using a cold start method.
How to check a fluorescent lamp and components
When connecting a fluorescent lamp, you need to be sure that the lamp and ballasts are working properly. To do this, you need to check the cathode filaments with a tester - their resistance should be within 10 Ohms.
If the tester shows infinite resistance,
then you should not throw away the lamp - it can be used for some time in cold start mode. The starter contacts are normally open, and its capacitor does not conduct direct current, that is, when testing, the resistance should be as high as possible - tens and hundreds of megohms.
When the ohmmeter probes touch the inductor terminals, the resistance should smoothly decrease to a constant value characteristic of the winding, within a few tens of ohms.
Unfortunately, using a conventional ohmmeter it is impossible to detect an interturn short circuit in the inductor winding, but if the multimeter has an inductance measurement and the parameters of the ballast are known, then if the values do not match, this defect can be identified.
A faulty throttle is also indicated by the burnout of the newly installed new lamp. Since the electronic ballast contains a complex circuit with many elements,
electronic block diagram then there is no way to test it with a multimeter.
A fluorescent lamp is a light source where the glow is achieved by creating an electrical discharge in an environment of inert gas and mercury vapor. As a result of the reaction, an ultraviolet glow, invisible to the eye, appears, affecting the phosphor layer located on the inner surface of the glass bulb. The standard connection diagram for a fluorescent lamp is a device with an electromagnetic balance (EMB).
The device of fluorescent lamps
In most light bulbs, the bulb is shaped like a cylinder. More complex geometric shapes are found. At the ends of the lamp there are electrodes, reminiscent in design of the spirals of incandescent light bulbs. The electrodes are made of tungsten and soldered to the pins located on the outside. Voltage is applied to these pins.
A gas environment is created inside the fluorescent lamp, which is characterized by negative resistance, which manifests itself when the voltage between the electrodes located opposite each other decreases.
The lamp switching circuit uses a choke (ballast). Its task is to generate a significant voltage pulse, due to which the light bulb will turn on. The kit includes a starter, which is a glow discharge lamp with a pair of electrodes in an inert gas environment. One of the electrodes is a bimetallic plate. When turned off, the electrodes of the fluorescent light bulb are open.
The figure below shows a diagram of the operation of a fluorescent lamp.
How does a fluorescent lamp work?
The operating principles of fluorescent light sources are based on the following principles:
- Voltage is sent to the circuit. However, at first the current does not reach the light bulb due to the high voltage of the environment. The current moves through the spirals of the diodes, gradually heating them. The current is supplied to the starter, where the voltage is sufficient to produce a glow discharge.
- As a result of the heating of the starter contacts by the current, the bimetallic plate shorts. The metal takes on the functions of a conductor, and the discharge ends.
- The temperature in the bimetallic conductor drops, and the contact in the network opens. The inductor creates a high voltage pulse as a result of self-induction. As a result, the fluorescent light bulb lights up.
- A current flows through the lighting fixture, which is halved as the voltage across the inductor is reduced. It is not enough to start the starter again, the contacts of which are open when the light is on.
To create a circuit for switching on two light bulbs installed in one lighting fixture, you need a common choke. The lamps are connected in series, but each light source has a parallel starter.
Connection options
Let's consider different options for connecting a fluorescent lamp.
Connection using electromagnetic balance (EMB)
The most common type of connection for a fluorescent light source is a circuit with a starter, where electronic ballasts are used. The principle of operation of the circuit is based on the fact that as a result of connecting the power, a discharge occurs in the starter and the bimetallic electrodes are short-circuited.
The current in the electrical circuit of the conductors and starter is limited only by the internal choke resistance. As a result, the operating current in the light bulb increases almost threefold, the electrodes rapidly heat up, and after the conductors lose temperature, self-induction occurs and the lamp ignites.
Disadvantages of the scheme:
- Compared to other methods, this is a rather expensive option in terms of energy consumption.
- Start-up takes at least 1 – 3 seconds (depending on the degree of wear of the light source).
- Inability to work at low air temperatures (for example, in an unheated basement or garage).
- There is a stroboscopic effect of flashing the light bulb. This factor negatively affects human vision. Such lighting cannot be used for production purposes, because fast moving objects (for example, a workpiece in a lathe) appear motionless.
- Unpleasant humming of the throttle plates. As the device wears out, the sound increases.
The switching circuit is designed in such a way that it has one choke for two light bulbs. The inductance of the inductor should be enough for both light sources. 127 volt starters are used. They are not suitable for a single-lamp circuit; 220 Volt devices are needed there.
The picture below shows a chokeless connection. The starter is missing. The circuit is used in case of burnout of filament lamps. A step-up transformer T1 and a capacitor C1 are used, which limits the current flowing through the light bulb from a 220-volt network.
The following circuit is used for light bulbs with burnt out filaments. However, there is no need for a step-up transformer, making the design of the device simpler.
Below is shown a method of using a diode rectifier bridge, which eliminates the flickering of a light bulb.
The figure below shows the same technique, but in a more complex design.
Two tubes and two chokes
To connect a fluorescent lamp, you can use a serial connection:
- The phase from the wiring is sent to the inductor input.
- From the inductor output, the phase goes to the contact of the light source (1). From the second contact it is sent to the starter (1).
- From the starter (1) it goes to the second contact pair of the same light bulb (1). The remaining contact is connected to zero (N).
Connect the second tube in the same way. First the inductor, then one contact of the light bulb (2). The second contact of the group is sent to the second starter. The starter output is combined with the second pair of light source contacts (2). The remaining contact should be connected to input zero.
Connection diagram for two lamps from one choke
The scheme provides for the presence of two starters and one choke. The most expensive element of the circuit is the inductor. A more economical option is a two-lamp lamp with a choke. The video explains how to implement the scheme.
The disadvantages of the electronic ballast circuit necessitated the search for a more optimal connection method. During the research, a method involving electronic ballast was invented. In this case, it is not the mains frequency (50 Hz) that is used, but high frequencies (20 – 60 kHz). It is possible to get rid of the flashing light that is harmful to the eyes.
Externally, the electronic ballast is a block with terminals exposed to the outside. The inside of the device contains a printed circuit board on which the entire circuit can be assembled. The unit is small in size, thanks to which it fits into the housing of even a small lighting device. Switching on is much faster compared to the EMPA standard. The operation of the device does not cause acoustic discomfort. This connection method is called starterless.
It is not difficult to understand the principle of operation of a device of this type, since there is a diagram on its reverse side. It shows the number of lamps for connection and explanatory notes. There is information about the power of the light bulbs and other technical parameters of the device.
The connection is made as follows:
- The first and second contacts are connected to a pair of lamp contacts.
- The third and fourth contacts are directed to the remaining pair.
- Power is supplied to the input.
Using Voltage Multipliers
This option allows you to connect a fluorescent lamp without using an electromagnetic balance. Usually used to increase the service life of light bulbs. The connection diagram for burnt-out lamps makes it possible for the light sources to work for some more time, provided that their power is no more than 20 - 40 W. Filaments are allowed both suitable for work and burnt out. In any case, the thread leads must be short-circuited.
As a result of rectification, the voltage doubles, so the light bulb turns on almost instantly. Capacitors C1 and C2 are selected based on an operating voltage of 600 Volts. The disadvantage of capacitors is their large size. As capacitors C3 and C4, preference is given to mica devices rated at 1000 Volts.
Fluorescent lamps are not compatible with direct current. Very soon, so much mercury accumulates in the device that the light becomes noticeably weaker. To restore the brightness of the glow, change the polarity by turning the bulb over. Alternatively, you can install a switch so you don't have to remove the lamp every time.
Connection without starter
The method using a starter involves prolonged heating of the light bulb. In addition, this part must be changed frequently. A scheme where the electrodes are heated using old transformer windings allows you to do without a starter. The transformer acts as ballast.
Bulbs used without a starter must be marked RS (quick start). A light source started through a starter is not suitable, since its conductors take a long time to heat up and the spirals burn out quickly.
Serial connection of two light bulbs
In this case, it is necessary to connect two fluorescent lamps with one ballast. All devices are connected in series.
To carry out electrical work you will need the following parts:
- induction throttle;
- starters (2 units);
- fluorescent light bulbs.
The connection is made in the following order:
- We connect starters to each light bulb. The connection is made in parallel. The connection point is the pin input at the ends of the lighting device.
- We direct free contacts to the electrical network. We use a choke for connection.
- We connect capacitors to the contacts of the light source. They will allow you to reduce the intensity of interference in the network and compensate for power reactivity.
Note! In standard household switches (especially in inexpensive models), contacts often stick due to too high starting currents. In this regard, it is recommended to purchase high-quality switches for use in conjunction with fluorescent lamps.
Replacing the lamp
If there is no light and the cause of the problem is only to replace a burnt out light bulb, proceed as follows:
- Let's disassemble the lamp. We do this carefully so as not to damage the device. Rotate the tube along its axis. The direction of movement is indicated on the holders in the form of arrows.
- When the tube is rotated 90 degrees, lower it down. The contacts should come out through the holes in the holders.
- The contacts of the new light bulb must be in a vertical plane and fit into the hole. When the lamp is installed, turn the tube in the opposite direction. All that remains is to turn on the power supply and check the system for functionality.
- The final step is the installation of a diffuser lamp.
System health check
After connecting the fluorescent lamp, you should make sure that it is working and that the ballasts are in good working order. To carry out the tests, you will need a tester with which to check the cathode filaments. The permissible resistance level is 10 ohms.
If the tester determines the resistance to be infinite, it is not necessary to throw away the light bulb. This light source still retains functionality, but it must be used in cold start mode. In the normal state, the starter contacts are open, and its capacitor does not allow direct current to pass through. In other words, the ringing should show a very high resistance, which sometimes reaches hundreds of ohms.
After touching the choke terminals with the ohmmeter probes, the resistance gradually decreases to a constant value inherent in the winding (several tens of Ohms).
Note! The faulty state of the throttle is indicated by the burnout of a recently installed light bulb.
It is not possible to reliably determine the turn-to-turn short circuit in the inductor winding using a conventional ohmmeter. However, if the device has an inductance measurement function and data on electronic ballasts, a discrepancy between the values will indicate a problem.
Connection to distribution box
Now begins the most exciting process - connecting your wiring to the junction box. If you know where the source of electrical current is located that you can connect to, then this is already good, otherwise the search for a distribution box may take a long time, and in some cases this can only be done using a hidden wiring detector. To connect the wiring directly to the electrical panel through an additional circuit breaker, use #160 instructions for installing the circuit breaker in panel #160 and connect the cable to it. By the way, you can power the circuit from a nearby outlet; this is not prohibited. If you plan to “carry”, then, of course, everything is solved by connecting the plug to the end of the wire.
To begin with, using an indicator screwdriver, we determine the power wire (phase) and zero in the distribution box or socket. If you have never held an indicator screwdriver in your hands, then here is #160 an article on how to use it. Was your electrician decent? Then the colors of the wires must match: brown or white - phase, and blue - zero. Old wiring, of course, does not contain colored wires and can look like anything. In this case, you will have to rely only on the readings of the indicator screwdriver. If you don’t have a special clearance group (and most likely you don’t, otherwise you wouldn’t be reading this article), working under open voltage is strictly prohibited! Therefore, you should unscrew the plugs, turn off the machines, and use the same indicator to make sure that the power wire is de-energized.#160
We power the switch through a phase, that is, we connect the power wire to the white or brown wire that comes from the switch, and we connect the zero to the blue wire that comes from the light bulb, as in the diagram. We connect the remaining white and blue wires that go, respectively, to the light bulb and switch. We carefully insulate all twists using electrical tape. If you want to expand your circuit by connecting an additional light bulb or, for example, adding a socket, you can use a double or triple switch, here is how to do this.
Do not twist aluminum or copper wires! This is an extremely unstable compound that quickly oxidizes and can not only fail, but also ignite. To connect such wires, use special terminal blocks. In an electrical store they are presented in a wide range. According to the rules of good manners and for safety reasons, try to use blocks instead of twisting wires everywhere.
If you did everything right, you can be proud of your work. If not... well, finally call an electrician.
I really hope that the article will be useful to you and that everything will work out for you. Perhaps I forgot to say something important that seems self-evident to me and not at all clear to you. Therefore, I will wait for your comments below and will be happy to answer questions, supplement and correct the article if necessary. Thank you for your attention!
Connection diagrams for three or more lamps.
Date: 09.05. | Section: Electrics
Hello dear readers of the site sesaga.ru. The idea for this article was suggested by Denis Zh, for which I thank him very much.
People who are not very knowledgeable about electricity are faced with the problem of independently connecting three or more conventional incandescent lamps, and there are situations when it is necessary to add your own to the existing wiring.
For example, you bought a kitchen set or a wardrobe, and of course it’s all backlit. The apartment was renovated, but there were no wires for connecting the light bulbs, which raises the question of how to make the lighting without violating the integrity of the walls and wallpaper. A way out can always be found.
I will show possible options, and everything else will depend on your imagination and ability to put these tips into practice. Additionally, you can read the article on how to properly connect a chandelier.
And so, let's go.
Let's assume that you have an outlet in your kitchen or hallway from which you can get a 220V supply voltage. There are two ways to do this.
The first is the simplest, this is when the entire circuit is connected to an outlet through a regular plug. Everything is simple here, you inserted the plug and forgot about it, and you turn the light on and off with a regular switch.
The second method differs only in that you need to open the socket and connect the wires directly to its terminals.
Perform all work only when the 220V supply voltage is turned off. .
The figure below shows a wiring diagram for parallel connection of three incandescent lamps with a single switch; LED and energy-saving lamps designed for a supply voltage of 220V are also connected. For more convenient perception, I tried to depict all the elements of the diagram as they would look in reality.
Here a two-core wire goes from the socket to the switch, where the phase ( L) is connected to the lower contact of the switch and is permanently located on it, and the zero wire ( N) bypassing the switch, connects at the point ( 1 ) with a wire going to the lamps.
When the switch key is turned on, the phase ( L) from the top contact, already like ( L1), goes to the light bulbs, and they light up.
The disadvantage of this method of wiring is that it turns out to be external. Here you will have to think about how to hide or disguise it, so you will have to use an overhead switch; you can install a regular one, but then you will need to drill a hole under it.
The next figure shows the same circuit, but here all the lamps are connected at one point. This is the same parallel connection, it’s just sometimes convenient to assemble the circuit in exactly this way, just like how lamps in chandeliers are connected.
Now let's look at a circuit that uses a two-key switch.
Here a regular two-wire wire goes up to the switch, but after it a triple wire comes out. Here you can see that in the middle there is a zero core ( N), which is common to all lamps, and along the edges there are phase ones ( L1 And L2).
The circuit works as follows: when you press, for example, the left key of a switch, phase ( L) coming to the lower contact of the switch, already from its upper contact as ( L1) goes to lamps HL1 And HL4#8212 they light up. Why exactly HL1 And HL4. because only they are connected to the phase ( L1). I think it's clear.
Now, if you turn on the right key, phase ( L), already like ( L2), from the other upper contact, comes to the lamps HL2 And HL3. and now they are lit. As you can see, everything is simple.
Nowadays, spotlights have come into fashion, using lamps with both regular 220V and reduced 12V supply voltage. As a rule, they come with a special converter that powers these lamps. In addition to the fact that it provides a stabilized voltage for the lamps, it also provides a power supply delay of 1 - 2 seconds. Those. when turned on, the voltage is not immediately, but gradually, increasing, supplied to the lamps, thereby protecting the spiral from rapid wear, which means the lamps will last longer.
Let's look at this diagram.
I showed the design of the converter, as well as its input and output parts conditionally, since they will differ depending on the manufacturer, but the operating principle of such converters remains the same.
220V power is supplied to it through a switch, and a stabilized voltage of 220V or 12V is taken from the output.
If you want to install a double switch, then you will need to add another converter to the circuit, which must be powered from the second key, zero ( N) they still have in common.
You can generally get by with just one converter, but there is a significant drawback due to which this option may not be acceptable to everyone. Here, a double switch is connected to the output voltage of the inverter, and the inverter itself remains constantly on, which is not good.
Don't forget that each converter is designed for a certain power, so don't get too carried away with the number of lamps.
Now you should not have any problems connecting three or more lamps.
My new article has been published about connecting a motion sensor to turn on the lighting. I recommend.
SWITCH CONNECTION DIAGRAM
We are not abroad, and not everyone will cry out for such trifles as replacing a switch in a room with a new one or an electrician. And the level of technical training of the Slavs cannot be compared with foreign ones. Therefore, we will try to connect the new switch to the light ourselves, so to speak, with our own hands. First, let's look at possible options for switch connection diagrams.
We warn you! Carry out all work on replacing switches with the mains voltage turned off!
The electrical wiring diagram is very simple. The phase (brown color) with wire (1) enters the box and, connecting to the core of the wire (2), is connected to the lower (input) contact of the switch. From the upper (output) contact, already a dotted line, the phase with wire (2) enters the box and, connecting in the box with the wire core (3), comes to the light bulb. Zero (blue color) with wire (1) goes into the box and, connecting to the wire core (3), comes to the light bulb.
The neutral wire from the junction box goes directly to the ceiling to the light bulb. Only the phase conductor goes to the switch and from it to the light bulb. This is provided for by the rules and done for the purpose of safety and safe operation of electrical equipment, so that when the switch is turned off, it is the phase that is broken, and not the zero. After all, if the phase remains connected to the light bulb (chandelier), then when replacing the lamps with new ones, you can accidentally touch the metal base and receive an electric shock. Of course, this will not be fatal, but if you fall from a stool, you can get worse injuries.
But let's get back to electrical work. To identify the input and output contacts, just look at the back of the switch. A double one, as a rule, has three outputs: two on one side (L1 and L2) are output, and one on the opposite side (L3) is input.
Zero comes to the light bulb directly from the supply wire, and the phase is made into a gap. The switch will break it; when you press the power button, it will close the circuit and supply a phase to the light bulb; when you turn it off, it will open and the phase will disappear. When connecting the chandelier itself, please note that zero is supplied to the thread, and phase is supplied to the base. Very often they are confused, connecting the cartridge as necessary.
Pass-through lighting switch
Sometimes, in large houses or shops (owners of Khrushchev-era apartment buildings may not read this section), you need to control the light from two points. For example, a long corridor or staircase to the second floor (in two-level apartments). The use of conventional switches is not effective, since once you turn on the light when entering a room, when you reach the other end of the room you will no longer be able to turn it off.
Pass-through switch diagram
The difference between a pass-through switch and a regular switch is that a pass-through switch is a switch. To understand the principle of operation and the switching circuit of the pass-through switch, we suggest considering the circuit of its switching from two places.
If conventional switches simply break the circuit, then pass-through switches switch from one circuit to another, that is, in the case of a pass-through switch from two places, it is necessary that power comes to the first pass-through switch, and one wire leaves from the second pass-through switch, which will be connected in distribution box with a wire powering the light bulb. And these two pass-through switches are connected to each other by a regular two-wire wire.
How to turn it on from three places? In this circuit, between two pass-through switches, you need to make one more, although it differs from the first two. In the previous circuit, the switches have one input contact and two output contacts, between which it switches, but in this switch there should already be two input wires and two output wires.
And one last thing. What wire should be used to connect the switches to the lamp? There is a separate material on this question, which describes in detail the type and application of electrical installation cables. In the simplest case, you can take a regular wire ShVVP-2x0.75. It is enough to power lamps with a total power of up to 300 watts.
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How to connect a switch to a light bulb
Connecting a switch to a light bulb is a fairly simple task that does not require the involvement of a qualified electrician. In order to find out how to connect a switch to a light bulb, just read the information below and strictly follow safety precautions when carrying out electrical work.
Connection diagram
The diagram shown in the figure indicates that the connection must be made through a junction box. This approach will allow you to easily replace the required section of the wire and determine the cause of the malfunction. There are two wires coming to the box - phase and neutral. The neutral wire is immediately connected to the lighting fixture, bypassing the switch. The phase wire is connected to the input contact of the switch, which in standard devices is located at the bottom. From the other (upper) contact, the phase is supplied directly to the light bulb.
Step-by-step instruction
To solve the problem, how to connect a switch to a light bulb. The following work order must be followed:
- Prepare recesses in the walls for mounting the distribution box (if there is none) and the switch. The installation and distribution boxes are fixed using putty.
- After installing the boxes, it is necessary to carry out the wiring method: if the room is under renovation, it is better to choose a closed installation method (in the wall), if it is not possible to groove the walls, you can lay the wiring in an open way (along the wall in a special plastic channel).
- When laying wiring in a closed way, it is necessary to mark the route of the wires on the wall and cut out channels along them. Experts recommend laying the route only in vertical and horizontal lines to make it easier to find wiring if necessary.
- When the preliminary work is completed, you can proceed to connecting the electrical part. To do this, we forward the phase and zero from the input panel to the distribution box.
- From the distribution box, zero is immediately supplied to the light bulb.
- The phase wire is connected to the lower contact of the switch, and from the upper contact the wire goes to the lighting fixture. At this stage, you need to be very careful and check that it is the phase wire that is connected to the switch, since if you connect a zero to the switch, the lighting device will always be energized, which can lead to electric shock when replacing the light bulb or touching the base when the switch is in the off position.
- To complete the work, it is necessary to replace the switch key, close the junction box, apply voltage and check the operation of the switch.
- Before starting work, it is necessary to take the necessary safety measures: turn off both input circuit breakers to de-energize the apartment or house and check the absence of voltage using an indicator screwdriver or a multimeter.
- In order for the connection to be made in accordance with the requirements of regulatory documents, the connection of copper wires must be performed by soldering, welding or using terminal clamps.
- It is necessary to observe the color coding of the wires in order to avoid confusion in the connection diagram in the future: the phase is connected with a brown or red wire, and the zero with a blue wire.
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