The need for a regulator arose due to the need to clean various kinds of rusty pieces of iron in the country before painting them. This can be conveniently done using a metal cord brush installed instead of a cutting wheel. However, since the grinder operates at maximum speeds around 10,000 rpm, the body vibrates quite strongly, and your hands get tired quickly.
The brush itself tries to catch on various irregularities and tear the grinder out of your hands, which is very dangerous. There is also an electric sharpener, which overheats sharpened chisels and thin drills at maximum speed. And the electric stove, despite the fact that it has a thermostat, strives to turn the heated food into coal.
To resolve the issue, Ali purchased an assembled 2000W network power regulator board for 100 rubles.
After successful testing of the regulator “on the snot”, the question of design of the device arose.
These boards have already been described several times on mysku, but the appearance of the assembled devices laid out for public display forced us to look for a more beautiful solution. I wanted to have a ready-made design that was as compact as possible. In Leroy Merlin, with a preliminary estimate of 30 rubles, I purchased a TDM junction box 65x65x50 mm. 
At the moment, these junction boxes are not available in Leroy, I will explain why the choice fell on this one:
- hinged non-removable lid
- one blank side wall
- suitable base size
- the height is sufficient to accommodate the radiator.
To accommodate the board, the bosses protruding from the bottom were trimmed and a hole was drilled in the side wall for the regulator slide. In fact, the board is secured in the box only by the regulator body and the standard reinforcing corner of the board. The socket is attached to the box cover with two M4 screws.
The network cable is threaded through a hole in an insulating sleeve inserted into the box body “in reverse”. This installation of the coupling prevents it from being pulled out along with the power cable during careless movements. Since the conductors of the power cable touch the radiator, an additional piece of PVC tube cut and tied with electrical tape was placed on it.
I made marks on the body of the extreme positions of the regulator.
As episodic operation for more than a year with different consumers has shown, the radiator does not get particularly hot and remains warm in a closed box during long-term operation with powerful consumers.
As for cleaning rusty pieces of iron with a cord brush for an angle grinder, such work at lower speeds has definitely become more comfortable and less dangerous. The gyroscope effect is noticeably reduced. A couple of times the cord brush got snagged in the corner, but thanks to the reduced power on the shaft, the angle grinder was able to be held in my hands without injury. And the grinder itself heats up significantly less.
PS Grinder model BLACK&DECKER (B&D) CD 115, I’ve had it for 7 years now. Planning to buy +117 Add to favorites I liked the review +65 +138
Oddly enough, a hand-held electric drill can be used not only for its intended purpose, but also in somewhat non-standard ways. So, using this tool you can make homemade machines. For example, a drilling machine, a circular machine, a grinder, and so on. However, it should be noted that not all electric drills have a function such as speed control. But in homemade machines, speed control is an integral function.
Of course, most modern drills are equipped with speed controllers. So, on the drill body there is a special trigger, which, by changing its position, increases or decreases the speed. But, almost all built-in regulators fix the frequency only when pressed maximally. At the same time, there is no locking at medium and low speeds, which is a significant drawback. Also, the drill may be in an awkward working position, making adjustment difficult.
A fairly effective and simple solution to this problem would be to manufacture an external speed controller. You can make such a drill speed controller yourself, and quite simply. As such a regulator, you can use a dimmer - a device for adjusting the degree of illumination. During production it is necessary to use other items, namely
plug and socket. Schematically, you can see this device in the figure below.Note that such a controller can be implemented in several ways. The simplest are two: with the use of a circuit breaker, and without it. It is worth considering that such a device is homemade, and when dealing with an electrical network, be careful when making and using it.
Now, a little more about manufacturing. When performing the first option, take the socket in your hands and screw two wires to its ends so that one is longer. Then, connect the long end to one of the terminals on the plug. Attach the second wire to the connections at the dimmer, and connect its second output to the second terminal of the electrical plug. When using the second option, it is necessary to make several changes to the circuit, namely, place a circuit breaker on the wire between the plug and the dimmer. As a rule, dimmers have regular switches, but we need an automatic one, which, if something happens, will disconnect our device from the network.
Thus, the drill speed controller is ready, and for convenience it can be placed in a special case, or mounted on a wooden panel.
Some more good articles:
An electric drill is an indispensable assistant in all types of home repairs: it can be used to perform a number of tasks from mixing paints, wallpaper glue to its main purpose - drilling various holes. The product's power button wears out quickly and has to be repaired or replaced with a new one quite often. To carry out this rather simple operation, the user needs a drill button connection diagram and knowledge of the most common malfunctions of this important part.
This simple-looking device, during use, gives signals to the user that he will soon need repairs, but not everyone understands them. If the drill begins to work with temporary interruptions or the button requires pressing harder than before, then these are the first symptoms of incorrect operation of this part.
When you use a cordless drill, the first thing you need to do is measure the battery voltage with a tester - if it is less than the nominal value, then it needs to be charged.
In this case, we are especially interested in the condition and functionality of the product’s on/off button. It is quite simple to check that it is working properly: you need to unscrew the fastenings of the main body, remove the top cover and check the voltage of the wires going to the device by plugging the power cord into a power outlet. When the device shows voltage supply, but when you press the button the product does not work, this indicates that it is broken or there has been a problem. burning of contacts inside the device.
Regular on/off button
Repairing or replacing a drill button is considered a simple process, but you need to have certain skills - if you open the side wall carelessly, many parts can fly apart in different directions or fall out of the case.
As written above, the button may not function due to oxidation or burnt contacts. To fix this you need take it apart, observing the following order.
- Carefully unhook the protective cover latches and open it.
- Remove carbon deposits on the contacts with alcohol, or clean them with sandpaper.
- Then assemble and check.
If everything works fine, then the reason was in the contacts, otherwise you need button replacement.
You should know that the special layer that is applied under the rheostat slider during manufacturing often wears off - in this case the button also needs to be replaced.
Quite often, the drill button connection diagram is used to check the functionality of the entire structure: only if it is available, can partial repairs be made or the button be connected correctly if it is replaced. The diagram must come with product operating instructions, if for some reason it is not there, then you can search on the Internet.
Power button with reverse/speed control
The drill button shown in the photo, in addition to reverse, has a built-in electric motor speed controller. This design is highly complex, so it is not possible to disassemble it without special skills: as soon as you open the case, all the parts will “scatter” in different directions, because they are supported by springs. Without knowing their correct location, it will be impossible to put the entire structure back together - it’s easier to buy a new one and make the connection by checking a special diagram, which can be found on the Internet.
Modern drills are produced with reverse, so the button performs several functions at once:
- basic inclusion of the product in operation;
- adjusting the rotation speed of the electric motor;
- turning on reverse - changing the direction of rotation of the engine rotor.
Attention! The reverse control and speed controller are located in different housings - they must be checked separately.
It must be remembered that in modern products speed controller is located on a special substrate, and during manufacture it is filled with a compound - an insulating composition, which, after hardening, protects all parts from mechanical, temperature and chemical influences. Therefore, it cannot be repaired.
As can be seen from the connection diagram, when it contains a drill button along with reverse, the rotation is switched using special toggle switch. In this case, plus or minus is supplied to different brushes, so the motor armature rotates in different directions.
You should not disassemble the drill start button yourself if its design is complex - disconnect the wires and take it to a service center, where professional specialists will carry out a full diagnosis and repair.
Our assistant can drill different materials, so there is often a lot of dust and waste. After each use you should clean the drill, then the next time you use the device, it will work like a Swiss watch: without failures or annoying stops.
When overloaded (drilling a large number of holes in concrete, for example), the FIT electric drill often breaks down the speed controller combined with the power button. To repair it, you must first carefully disassemble the drill, remove the regulator from it and disconnect the wires from it, having previously written down which wire is connected to which contact.
The regulator body is disassembled by bending the sides and removing the cover from the clamps, without glue. We must be careful and leisurely - there are 2 springs there that miss the light and flying))).
With the mechanics, everything is not difficult - we clean the contacts and rinse them with alcohol to remove dirt. The board with the circuit can be easily removed by first sliding the copper squares of the clamp-contacts out of the grooves. The only element of the circuit that fails is the triac. We find it and “neutralize” it by removing the conductors suitable for it (we bury it on the spot).
We make a tap from the control electrode with a thin stranded wire (to fit under the cover) and lead it into the existing hole during assembly. Reassembling the regulator is not a problem (if you are careful and deliberate!). From the regulator terminals (not from the phase terminal) we make 2 additional ones. outlet with a flexible wire for connecting a triac. It becomes a remote element of the regulator. (there is enough space in the handle for its location).
(angle grinders), commonly used by Bulgarians, have a speed regulator.
The speed regulator is located on the body of the angle grinder
Consideration of various adjustments should begin with an analysis of the electrical circuit of the angle grinder.
simple representation of the electrical circuit of a grinding machine
More advanced models automatically maintain rotation speed regardless of the load, but tools with a manual disk are more common. If a trigger-type regulator is used on a drill or electric screwdriver, then such a regulation principle is impossible on an angle grinder. Firstly, the features of the tool require a different grip when working. Secondly, adjustment during operation is unacceptable, so the speed value is set with the engine turned off.
Why adjust the rotation speed of the grinder disc at all?
- When cutting metal of different thicknesses, the quality of work greatly depends on the speed of rotation of the disk.
If you are cutting hard and thick material, you must maintain maximum rotation speed. When processing thin sheet metal or soft metal (for example, aluminum), high speeds will lead to melting of the edge or rapid blurring of the working surface of the disk; - Cutting and sawing stone and tile at high speed can be dangerous.
In addition, the disk, which rotates at high speeds, knocks small pieces out of the material, making the cutting surface chipped. Moreover, different speeds are selected for different types of stone. Some minerals are processed at high speeds; - Grinding and polishing work is in principle impossible without adjusting the rotation speed.
By setting the speed incorrectly, you can damage the surface, especially if it is a paint coating on a car or a material with a low melting point; - The use of discs of different diameters automatically implies the presence of a regulator.
Changing a disk Ø115 mm to Ø230 mm, the rotation speed must be reduced by almost half. And it’s almost impossible to hold a 230 mm disc rotating at 10,000 rpm in your hands; - Polishing of stone and concrete surfaces, depending on the type of crowns used, is carried out at different speeds. Moreover, when the rotation speed decreases, the torque should not decrease;
- When using diamond discs, it is necessary to reduce the number of revolutions, since their surface quickly fails due to overheating.
Of course, if your grinder works only as a cutter for pipes, angles and profiles, you won’t need a speed controller. And with the universal and versatile use of angle grinders, it is vital.